MOUNTAIN MUSE

Issue Fourteen | History of the Mountain

This is where the amazing flavors of these world-class wines come from, when these vines are stressed. It goes back to the origins of the grapevine.
Jess Jackson A Man and His Mountain

Expansive wine estates like Stonestreet are rare today. By sharing our history, we hope to deepen your appreciation of how our founders’ vision has been key to our continuity. 

Stonestreet Estate Vineyards encompasses 5,300 acres on the west side of the Mayacamas Mountains overlooking northern Sonoma County. “The mountain,” as we refer to it, rises 3,130 feet above Alexander Valley. A combination of cooling Pacific Ocean winds, 26 different soil types, and every aspect from northeast to southwest creates a patchwork of 170 micro-vineyards, making for one of the world’s most diverse wine estates. 

Were it not for the long-term vision of our founders, Jess Stonestreet Jackson and Barbara Banke, the mountain might look vastly different today. To be sure, grape growing preceded Jess and Barbara’s arrival, but it was nothing like the forward-thinking farming practices in place now. In fact, at one point, the land was nearly turned into a golf course! 

JESS JACKSON’S FIXATION ON MOUNTAIN TERROIR

A lawyer by profession, Jess Jackson traveled the world and discovered a love of wine. His first vineyard purchase was meant to be a retirement hobby, but it turned into his second career, launching Kendall-Jackson wines and the iconic Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay. Jess was an early pioneer in California’s modern wine industry, guided by a keen eye for where to plant vines to produce wines of the highest quality. 

In his biography A Man and His Mountain, Jess explains that his penchant for high-elevation vineyards stemmed from his appreciation of the first vinifera grapes discovered in the Caucasus. There, harsh mountain conditions forced the vines to put all their energy into nourishing their grapes, even to the point of shutting down. “This is why I decided to buy most of our prime vineyard land on rocky hillsides,” he said. “This is where the amazing flavors of these world-class wines come from, when these vines are stressed. It goes back to the origins of the grapevine.” 

Confident that Sonoma County could rival Napa Valley, Jess relentlessly sought out mountain sites with cool coastal fog, sparse soils, and hot, sunny days. 

FROM J BAR RANCH TO GAUER RANCH (1969-1994)

In 1969, a property with all those traits came up for sale. Jess’s first attempt to buy the land, then known as the J Bar B Ranch, was thwarted by Bay Area business owner Edward Gauer, who renamed it Gauer Ranch. After struggling to turn a profit with prunes, sheep, and cattle, Gauer turned to grapes. 

Gauer planted the Upper Barn Vineyard, whose vines still produce our pinnacle Chardonnay today. While he made wine under a private label, most of the Upper Barn fruit was sold to producers like Marcassin and Peter Michael to craft exceptional Chardonnay. 

In 1989, Gauer sold the ranch to Chevron Corporation, which bought the property hoping to discover a source of geothermal energy. The company conducted land surveys for two years and—luckily for us—dug two extremely deep holes, which eventually became the water sources for the entire mountain property. Failing to find geothermal energy, Chevron proposed transforming the property into a golf course, which met with fierce opposition from conservationists and politicians.  

Jess, remembering his love for the property, secured an option to buy the ranch should Chevron decide to sell. His persistence paid off, and in 1995, Jess purchased the Gauer Ranch, renaming it Alexander Mountain Estate in honor of the valley’s namesake, Cyrus Alexander, and Jess’s grandfather, John Alexander Jackson. 

DEFYING THE LIMITS OF CALIFORNIA WINEGROWING (1995-2011)

Many thought Jess and Barbara were taking a huge risk, but their mission was clear: to push the limits of where winegrapes could grow in California. From the start, they pursued a multigenerational vision rooted in respecting the land, growing the highest-quality fruit, and positioning the property as a world-class wine estate. 

“Mine is a vision, I hope, of that 100- or 200-year threshold,” Jess explained. “We can’t just be thinking about today.” Indeed, more than 85% of the estate now remains in its natural habitat, home to cougars, bobcats, foxes, and birds of prey. The terrain teems with windblown grasses, wild chamomile, sagebrush, and bay laurel, which influence the aromatics of the wines. 

As a first step, Jess and Barbara hired a viticultural team to study the mountain. After discovering more than 20 soil types and dozens of microclimates, they mapped out 800 acres to plant along five ridges—one each to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay. Today, Petit Verdot, Semillon, Riesling, Malvasia Bianca, Assyrtiko, Tannat, and Syrah are also grown on the mountain, making for a total of 12 varieties. 

From 2000 to 2010, the team intensified their efforts to identify all the possible microsites on the mountain—resulting in the 170 parcels that are farmed separately today. Winemaker Kristina Shideler and vineyard manager Gabriel Valencia were integral to this effort. “Jess and Barbara’s vision to explore the potential of quality across the mountain to produce wines that are deeply reflective of site is at the foundation of what we do at Stonestreet,” Kristina says. 

Jess passed away in April 2011, but his legacy lives on through Barbara and the next generation. 

SECOND-GENERATION MOUNTAIN STEWARDS (2011-Present) 

“My father’s vision, my vision, and my mother’s vision was to make this place recognized for what it is in fact—one of the best wine estates in the world.” Chris Jackson, Proprietor, Second Generation   

Chris Jackson was four years old when he moved with his parents to the mountain. Today, he and his wife, Ariel, share the estate with their four sons. As second-generation proprietors, they—along with Barbara, Gabe, and Kristina—are committed to making decisions that benefit future generations. 

This vision was tested during the Pocket Fire of October 2017, which consumed 17,357 acres within Sonoma County. The mountain lost wildlife and vegetation, but eventually the bobcats and bears reappeared, and the land regenerated with mustard and chamomile. 

After this experience, the team intensified their regenerative farming practices, which they had initiated in 2004. In addition to implementing cover crops, no-tilling, livestock grazing, and composting, they planted vigorous rootstock and clone combinations that could withstand extreme environmental challenges. Replanting and regrafting—both labor-intensive—are an ongoing requirement today to ensure the estate’s legacy.  

Chris’s long-term vision includes preserving old vines, with an eye toward using their resilient plant material as a resource for adapting to climate change. Working with Gabe and Kristina, he also helps to decide future plantings and tracks the quality of wine from younger vines. 

A corollary to preserving the mountain’s legacy is celebrating its distinctiveness. In 2022, Chris was part of a small team that authored and filed the petition to create the Pocket Peak AVA. The proposed Pocket Peak AVA will distinguish between grapes grown at high elevation, like those of Stonestreet, and those grown in the valley below. “Pocket Peak is home to profound wine stories yet to be told,” Chris says. “We believe the distinct features of Alexander Valley deserve to be explored and celebrated for their individuality.” 

Arguably, the most profound reflection of Jess and Barbara’s vision is Christopher’s Vineyard at 2,400 feet. Named for Jess’s son, it reminds us that every glass of Stonestreet wine embodies a multigenerational commitment to the mountain and a reverence for the secrets the mountain has yet to reveal. 

We’d welcome the chance to share more of this history—as well as our love for the mountain and its environment—if you would like to come visit and enjoy one of our carefully curated experiences